General Information about Seeds

Welcome to the New England Wild Flower Society's 2007 catalogue of seeds and fern spores from plants native to North America. Except as noted, seeds and spores were collected at the Garden in the Woods during 2006. Please remember that we are a non-profit plant conservation organization, not a commercial seed house. Seed cleaning and packaging are done by volunteers. We aim to provide our members and the public with high quality, native seed that is true to name. However, because the process of seed germination is affected by many variables, we cannot guarantee germination. We hope you will enjoy our seeds and that they will provide plants to grace your garden for many years to come. As our Nursery Director and Propagator, Bill Cullina, likes to say, “I've grown some of my best friends from seed.”

Most of the seeds and fern spores in this catalogue are native to eastern North America. These seeds are intended for garden use, not for the reintroduction of native plants to the wild. We suggest The New England Wild Flower Society Guide to Growing and Propagating Wildflowers of the United States and Canada for detailed cultural and range information for most of these seeds. Many of the species in this seed catalogue are uncommon in cultivation, but we feel they are worthy of attention. All species are hardy to at least USDA Zone 5. Sowing and cultivation information will be included with every seed order.

Key to Conditions and Plant Descriptions

Plant Descriptions include the following:

1. Catalog # - use this when ordering
2. *This symbol indicates seed stored moist to retain viability - either in a plastic bag or a plastic bag containing damp vermiculite; sow immediately upon receipt if possible.
3. Latin name, with synonyms or newly proposed names in parentheses.
4. (Common Name)
5. Light requirements: Full Sun = 6+ hours of direct sun a day during summer. Part Sun or Part shade = 2-6 hours of direct sun a day. Shade = < 2 hours of direct sun a day, but may include dappled sun.
6. Average bloom time in Framingham, Massachusetts
7. Flower color – though your eyes may see it differently…
8. Plant height (in either feet or inches, depending on what is more appropriate for the particular species). A range indicates the height in and out of flower or under differing environmental conditions.
9. Soil and moisture requirements:
   • Wet means a soil with a high water table, where standing water is visible within one foot of the surface when you dig down with a shovel. Typically, the water table fluctuates during the season, and periodic standing or surface water is tolerated by most wetland plants. Obviously wetlands are sensitive ecosystems important to wildlife as well as many plants, so if you have this type of soil, be aware that your state and/or local authorities may have strict regulations and guidelines regarding wetland disturbance or alteration. With this in mind, restoring damaged wetlands with native flora is one of the most satisfying and beneficial things you can do for your local ecosystem.
   • Moist is a soil where the water table is at least one foot below the surface, but it is a soil that never dries out completely (the soil 2-6 inches below the surface should be cool and damp to the touch) or only for brief periods. Obviously, this is an ideal soil for most plants and one that in practice is difficult to find. We all have wet and dry years, but think of this as an average condition. Many gardeners rely on occasional supplemental irrigation to keep soils evenly moist, but please consider more drought tolerant alternatives if you find you need to constantly water. The addition of organic matter and a good layer of mulch will help hold water and cool the soil as well.
   • Dry soils feel dry to the touch a foot or more below the surface for at least part of the year. Often these soils are moist or wet in winter and spring and dry over the course of the summer. This is a common condition in many gardens, and fortunately there are a host of native wildflowers adapted to dry soils that are excellent alternatives to a dependence on irrigation.
   • Well-drained. Plant roots need oxygen as we do, and certain plants, especially those from dry, sandy soils and alpine environments, will easily suffocate if a soil holds too much water. A well-drained soil contains a high percentage of sand or gravel which promotes air exchange and sheds water quickly.
   • Moist, well-drained soils strike a balance between air exchange and water retention. They have a good balance of organic material and grit but require regular rainfall or irrigation. Dry well-drained soils are gritty enough to shed water even during times of rain. A heavy clay or gumbo soil would not be considered well-drained, even if it is dry.
   • Acidic or alkaline. By acid or acidic we mean soils with a pH under 5.5, and alkaline a pH above 6.5. Most wildflowers can be accommodated in soils with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, so we have only mentioned the exceptions.
10. Plant description and seed germination tips written by Bill Cullina – hopefully helpful and occasionally amusing.
11. Germination code(s): Take these as guidelines, not as the one and only way to germinate a particular seed. Codes listed after each species indicate those that have worked reliably at Garden in the Woods – at least most of the time! [All seeds should be stored dry - unless received as moist-stratified - in sealed containers in the refrigerator until time of sowing. Seed germination time varies for each species and can take from several days to many months.]

    • A. No pretreatment necessary. Species should germinate upon sowing in a warm location (70°–80° F). Sowing the seeds outdoors in early spring is the easiest method.
    • B. Species germinates after a 90-day period of moist, cold conditions (less than 40°F). Waiting until late fall and sowing the seeds outdoors in a coldframe is the easiest method. For earlier germination, sow seeds in a pot enclosed in a plastic bag and place in the refrigerator for 90 days before bringing into a warm location for germination. Many species will receive adequate stratification if placed outside before mid-February (in New England).
    • C. Species has a “double dormancy” and requires alternating cold and warm periods in order to germinate. Simply sowing the seeds outside in a seedbed or coldframe in late fall and allowing two full years for germination is the easiest method. For earlier germination, sow seeds in pots enclosed in a plastic bag and place in refrigerator for 90 days, then place uncovered pot in a warm location for 90 days. Repeat the cold treatment again either in the refrigerator or outside in late fall. Seeds will then germinate in a warm location.
    • D. In order to germinate, seeds of this species need a warm, moist period (typically 90 days), followed by a cold, moist period. Sowing the seeds outdoors in the spring and waiting one year for germination is the easiest method. For faster results, sow seeds in a warm location for 90 days, then put the pot in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 90 days before bringing it into a warm location for germination.
    • G. Seeds or spores that need high humidity and light to germinate. Best surface sown and placed in a self-sealing plastic bag indoors under grow-lights.
    • H. Seeds or spores of this species need light to germinate and should not be covered after sowing. Sow in container and water from bottom as necessary.
    • I. Seeds of this species have a hard seed coat. A light rubbing with sand paper or nail file before sowing is beneficial.
    • J. Seeds difficult to germinate and/or grow.
    • EASY –good choice for beginners.
    • LIMITED –seeds in short supply, list substitutions wherever possible.

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